|By Anonymous on Thursday, April 21, 2005 - 11:33 pm:|
I bought a Driving Force Pro for PS2 yesterday and I got the same problem with the wheel turning and turning while the left led blink.
Did you find any solution ?
|By Tom (Tom) on Tuesday, August 24, 2004 - 10:29 am:|
900 degree is only available in games that support it. So far, the only shipping game that supports 900 degrees (I know of) is Richard Burns Rally; GT4 will have that feature, too.
You *can* override the game's setup through a combination of buttons if you want to. However, be prepared for gameplay suckiness, because running something in 900 that was designed for single-turn wheels will necessarily be difficult to control.
For details with mode switching, see http://www.wingmanteam.com/discus/messages/4/2527.html?TuesdayMarch3020040607am#POST11148 for example...
|By Bryan Berg on Tuesday, August 24, 2004 - 08:31 am:|
I can't even get mine in the 900 degree mode. I tried playing Gran Turismo 3 and Need for Speed Underground, both of which are listed on the box as compatible games. Both only allow the 200 degree mode. The very first time I plugged it in trying to play GT3 it went the full 900 for calibration, but then went into 200 mode. Is there something you have to do to get the 900 mode or is it supposed to be auto?
|By Tom Borba on Wednesday, July 7, 2004 - 06:30 am:|
Yeah, the wheel basically felt like it was super glued in place, but like I said I figured it was the new 900 degree technology or something. The broken wheel had never been opened before. I could tell by the seal on the box and the neat packaging inside. The cables were tightly bound and had never been unraveled and the package literature had not been touched. I always look for evidence of a returned item when I buy from a super store like that anyway, and the bad wheel was definitely a new product not a return.
The good wheel I got last night had been opened and was not even resealed for that matter. It was very dusty and creased on top too, and the cable on the pedals had been unraveled before and was not tightly bound by the twist tie. But...I told the sales guy I would give it a try anyway because they had no more in stock and none on order. I'm going back to buy the extended warranty on this one though just to make sure.
|By Tom (Tom) on Tuesday, July 6, 2004 - 10:40 pm:|
thanks for the feedback and apologies for your trouble. To answer your question:
Well, the answer is, "it shouldn't". There is a chance that it could have been damaged in transit (again, "it shouldn't", there are people designing boxes and padding for a reason...), or it could have been a returned unit that was damaged by the previous user?
It made allot of cracking sounds while it was trying to calibrate. How does a wheel like that get out of the factory without being noticed anyway?
|By Tom Borba on Tuesday, July 6, 2004 - 08:44 pm:|
Well, not wanting to press my luck and based on your response I returned it tonight for another wheel and the second one is fine. I noticed right out of the box that the replacement wheel moved freely so that was a good sign. I thought it kind of strange that the other wheel was not even movable when I first opened it, but then this was new technology so I didn't question it. I guess it was pretty messed up inside though. It made allot of cracking sounds while it was trying to calibrate. How does a wheel like that get out of the factory without being noticed anyway?
Funny thing is, when I bought it there were two wheels on the shelf. I picked the one that looked like the box was in the best shape but got a broken wheel. The other box that looked like it had been around a while is the replacement wheel I got tonight and it was fine. You will be getting the broken wheel back I guess. It will be from the Lakewood, CA Best Buy store.
|By aidan on Tuesday, July 6, 2004 - 11:36 am:|
It sounds like a hardware problem based on your description. Of course it should work straight out of the box, so I don't think it is something simple/obvious. I've sent your email and a link to this post to our hardware/qa people. They may follow up with you to try some diagnostics.
|By Tom Borba on Tuesday, July 6, 2004 - 11:26 am:|
BTW, this wheel will be used for PS2 only, so I don't need any info on getting it to work with PC games. Anybody out there????
|By Tom Borba on Monday, July 5, 2004 - 08:05 pm:|
I bought a Driving Force Pro for PS2 last month. I've been so busy I just opened it today to use it with GT3 and Burnout 2 and it will not calibrate. I hook it all up and turn the PS2 on and when the game/s start to load the wheel starts turning left, pauses, goes back to about center, then repeats after ten seconds or so, over and over again. The right led is on and the left is continually flashing all the time.
According to your FAQ the flashing left led means it is attempting to calibrate. All connections are correct. Top USB port, power supply, pedals connected. I did notice that the wheel was ridged when I unpacked it, meaning that the wheel would not freely turn by hand at all. It didn't move until the first time I powered on the PS2. All buttons are dead too. None of them work.
I need to know fast if there is something I can do because I have a 30 day return policy and it is up in three days. I also tried plugging the wheel into my PC which I use a Momo Force wheel with and it acted the same way. Is the wheel defective? It's brand spankin' new. Please help quick, I don't want to hassle the return if it is something simple. Oh and the manual says revision 2 if that helps.