|By Anonymous on Tuesday, May 16, 2006 - 11:28 pm:|
I have had my Logitech MOMO (in yellow lettering)
for over 8 months now and haven't had any issues with it so far.
I online race about 3-4 hours per night and League race on Sunday's. I am a server and website administrator. www.noassistracing.com
My previous wheel of two years was a Logitech GP "NASCAR", which did have some pedal issues. This was easily fixed by taking the pedals apart and finding that "dust bunnies and grit" had entered the housing and bound up the axis pin. Also noticed the brake pedal axis pin had a minimal amount of lubricant applied from the Logitech factory assembly.
After cleaning and then lubricating with 100% silicone, I had no more issues and used it as a trade in for the MOMO.
Suggestions: periodically clean/dust the pedal housing openings.
I used compressed air at a low PSI to keep them clean. Vacuum under your computer work station for "dust bunnies and grit".
Clean the soles of your shoes to prevent grit from entering the pedal housing.
Another possibility is the hard use/abuse of slammimg on the brakes and tromping on the accelerator, causing the potentiometers to become dislodged from their mountings.
I can see the planned "obsolesence" by the manufacturer of using cheaper carbon pad potentiometers, when older track ball "mice" had optical encoders in them.
I was an electronics field service technician
for commercial/industrial barcode printers/ scanners, inkjet and thermal printers, where we charged $125.00 service call fees plus parts to companies such as, Coca Cola, Duracell, M&M Mars/Master Foods, Shaw Industries Inc., Jack Daniels, Georgia Pacific and many others.
On Teamspeak I can hear other racers who are wrenching their wheels as they correct/over correct their driving, (those poor wheels)
making that incredibly loud "rear" "rear" sound from the force feedback.
I think no wonder some racing gamers are constantly having wheel/pedal issues from "driving" them so hard.
I'm shure that a MOMO or two have been abused from the anger of their owners who take out fustrations of driving circumstances on them.
|By Anonymous on Saturday, July 9, 2005 - 08:06 pm:|
I've had problems with my Momo pedals and I've tried a couple of fixes which have worked for me for over 6 months (knock on wood). I used the fix in the http://web.axelero.hu/mozso/momo_e5.html web site. I also purchase 3/4" ID O-rings and placed one O-ring next to the springs against the body of the pedal. Only use 1 strip of electrical tape around the pedal shafts. I also used a lot of lubrication aroung the shafts of the pedals being careful not to get any lube close to the pots. All of this helped stop some of the latteral movement in the pedal. In the Mozso fix, they recommend using super glue to keep the pot in place. I didn't use super glue, but I used some putty (like in Silly Putty) and stuffed the putty into the hole where the pot stem is placed. This so far has worked for me because I firmly believe the issue with calibration is because of the pot moving out of position due to latteral movement of the pedal. The O-rings helped curb the latteral movement and the putty helped keep the pot in place.
|By Marc Collins on Tuesday, April 19, 2005 - 06:58 pm:|
I guess that was my concern and why I asked if there is in fact two versions of the pedals (0000 and 1000)? Or, if that isn't even going to make a difference, then it would be software required to chnage the way the calibration is "remembered." I am very careful with my product and that's why it is still in perfect condition after 3 years or so. I was one of the first purchasers, had major problems with the gas pedal from the outset and then Logitech contacted me to do a pedals swap--so they could test the old ones. The new ones were no different. The beta patch helps, certainly, but only for a period of time. Now everyone is saying the disassembly/fix/reassembly gigantic pain in the as* is also a very temporary fix. I'll buy another MOMO wheel and pedals set--but is that also just a temporary fix--perhaps only weeks!?!?!?!!?
There has to be a real fix for this!?!
|By Anonymous on Tuesday, April 19, 2005 - 02:35 pm:|
well I have been dealing with the gas pedal issue for well over a year now and have tried all the supposed fixes to no avail. I too am sick an tired of having to open up the pedal base every couple of weeks. Recently it started with the brake pedal as well and my head sunk lower. The other day after collecting the lastest round of downloads to make this problem go away I inherited a new trait, wheel pulls hard left at random usually straight to the wall. The fix for it didn't fix it at all.
I agree the wheel is a nice wheel to use but quite useless without pedals to match. I've tried everything I can find on the subject and still have all problems in place. Any ideas people would be promply tried
#38 Roo Racing
|By Anonymous on Tuesday, April 19, 2005 - 04:34 am:|
You can try this fix I forgot to add:
But you still have to do it every few hrs of usage.
|By Anonymous on Tuesday, April 19, 2005 - 04:16 am:|
Hmm, sorry to break a bubble here.
But this is not the problem of a worn out part in a mass product. In fact you can read across all gaming boards that these problems can happen already after a couple of weeks.´In my case it was less than a week.
Even if I played a few hrs in my first week, there is more I expect from a €100 expensive "mass product". I have used cheaper wheels before where such problems never happened to the pedal unit.
If you open your pedal unit you will see that the pedal unit is really poor quality (inside). It is a pitty that such a great wheel comes with such a poor pedal unit. And I am personally getting tired of opening the pedal unit every so often to fix something (with tape) which I am not supposed to fix.
a not so happy customer.
|By Marc Collins on Saturday, April 16, 2005 - 09:00 am:|
Sorry I am not a pot. expert: is there a different potentiometer for the brake pedal--I can't tell from the parts list? Why is it never a problem? It will later, but it just gets used less? It is mounted better?
|By Anonymous on Thursday, April 14, 2005 - 09:49 pm:|
So the potentiomter you use most has the problem :) That is what I would expect for mechanical wear tear on a limited life time part. Part details are here http://www.wingmanteam.com/discus/messages/5/1338.html?SundayJune920020251pm
When you disconnect/reconnect it resets the calibration on the controller, that solves the problem for a while, until the pot skips/jumps again...and messes up the calibration. The older the pot the more likely it is to skip/jump. It is described in many places on the bboard.
Ideally companies that sell such products should have replacement parts but they never do, look at Applie and the ipod battery :(
You might find this interesting
|By Marc Collins on Thursday, April 14, 2005 - 04:12 pm:|
I can accept that, except that the brake pedal and the steering are still and always have been 100% accurate and perfect.
The "fix" fixes the gas pedal problem COMPLETELY, but only for a period of time (seems to be getting shorter over time).
I have experienced potentiometer wear in other products and we all know there is more going on here than just that.
A) Is there or not more than one "version" of the pedals? Urban myth or was some hardware change made at a certain point (1000 vs. 0000 model numbers)?
B) What is the pot used in the gas pedal? Is it even remotely worth replacing them or is that a waste of time/money/effort? Would a better quality pot last longer? Is one available?
C) How does the new high-end PS/2 wheel (can't remember the name) compare to the MOMO? I am interested primarily in the subtle QUALITY of the FFB...and the greater turning lock seems interesting, but no way would I trade any features if the accuracy and FFB is not equal or better to the MOMO. Does it use optical or better quality pots in the pedals than the MOMO?
I don't mind throwing out a perfectly functioning wheel and pedals set because of a $3 pot...this is the computer industry after all. I DO want to make sure that I eliminate this problem and avoid more time wastage (fiddling as well as I have very limited time to race and can't afford to have EVERY session ruined at some point with this calibration problem).
I still don't understand how the pedal response is 100% smooth and linear for a time period after reconnecting the pedals cable...any worn pots I have ever experienced are worn/wonky consistently.
|By Anonymous on Wednesday, April 13, 2005 - 10:30 pm:|
Tom has a good point. Basically this class of potentiometer based products have limited wear/tear. If you find a set of pedals that use optical encoding that would be good (no wear on encoders),but there are no such today, so if you play a lot then it might be worth while to consider getting some of those higher end racing sets.
|By tom on Wednesday, April 13, 2005 - 09:31 pm:|
it was appropriate and apologies for not answering. If I don't answer immediately I forget :/
From your description there are two possible problems - either the pots are not seated properly inside the pedals and can rock back and forth, achieving deflections that are not possible during normal use. That could be fixed by opening the pedals and checking that all was OK, perhaps re-seating the pots.
The other possibility is that the pedals (pots inside) are definitely going bad. The "pedals fix" helps the ailing pots along for a while but eventually they will become worn enough to show problems again. In that case, nothing will really help in a lasting fashion. There's a good chance that if you take out the pots, move them back and forth a few times (some people swear by applying tuner cleaner on them), you might have peace and quiet for another while (months?) until they start acting up again.
Not sure what can be expected from a mass-market product. Several years of extensive use is probably all that it was designed for...
|By Marc Collins on Wednesday, April 13, 2005 - 05:34 pm:|
A message I e-mailed to tom (and have no idea if that was appropriate):
Many moons ago, Logi sent me a replacement set of pedals for my black MOMO. Then, the beta fix was released that tried to fix the gas pedal losing its top end problem.
The pedals did nothing to resolve the problem, but the beta fix did work for a time. Now, after unplugging the pedals from the base unit, my problem is resolved for a while--hard to say how long. But the gas pedal will consistently lose its calibration--usually at the worst possible moment (in the game/race).
I tried updating to Profiler 4.50.175, but that also has no effect on the problem. I have not re-applied the beta patch as it seems to be an older version and the current situation is no different or worse than before I upgraded the Profiler.
What is happening with this issue? Is it true that there is a "1000" series pedals that work properly (I have the "0000")? If so, I would like some.
My wheel and pedals (other than this annoyance with the calibration) are in perfect condition after several years of extensive use. I couldn't be happier with the overall package for the money...if this damned pedal thing didn't keep happening.
Thanks for your attention,